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Volume 1, No. 2 - July 2001

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Pahalgam

The Lidder river runs through the Pahalgam, in a rushing grey-green torrent, foam-alecked, breaking in curling waves against the boulders that lie in its path. Its sound is as eternal as the whisper of wind through pine and fir, its force primaeval in its untamed splendour.

Long before this little village, 96 km east of Srinagar, 2400 metres above sea level, became the popular holiday resort it is today, it was the preserve of nomadic shepherds. Its rugged charm has remained  unspoilt by progress, while a bustling main street and its wide range of tented camps, hotels, and lodges have established it as a favourite holiday resort.

Pahalgam spreads along the banks of the Lidder, which is the focal point of interest to the angler. The trout fisherman's delight, the Lidder is divided onto three fishing beats between Mattan and Pahalgam, and the trout are so thick that even the first time fisherman can land a good catch.

Pahalgam is perhaps best known as the take-off point for treks into the surrounding mountains. The resort is well geared to meet the demands of onward going trekkers and camping equipment is readily available, as are ponies and porters. Walking the Lidder valley is scenically most rewarding, through forests of virgin pine, fording crystal-clear mountain streams and through meadows of wild-flowers, higher up the valley.

Popular treks from Pahalgam are to the Kolahoi Glacier via Aru, Satlanjan and Dudsar Lake, and to the high altitude lakes that dot the meadowland and mountain ridges between Pahalgam ang Sonamarg

Pahalgam serves as the base camp for many expeditions and excursions such as Kolahari Glacier, Sheeshnag, Sonasar, Harwag and the Amarnath Yatra. Pristine camping grounds under the shadow of tall pines trees are delightful. Pahalgam is situated at a distance of 95 kms from Srinagar at a height of about 2130 mts (7200 ft). Pahalgam offers excellent opportunities for hiking, riding, fishing etc.

Excursions from Pahalgam

MAMALLESWARA

Mamalleswara is only a kilometren downstream on the opposite bank of Lidder River. A Shiv temple dating back to the 12th century with a square stone tank, lies here.

BAISURAN

5 kms from Pahalgam is a lush meadow surrounded by hills and covered with dense vegetation. This region looks very similar to European resorts and is a good campsite.

TULIAN

3 miles from Baisuran is lake Tulian situated at 3353 mts. It remains snow covered for most of the year and comes along a trek route.

ARU

A small village, 11 kms upstream the Lidder River, is a beautiful locality. The route is picturesque with ample campsites. This village is the starting point for treks to the Kolahoi glacier.

KOLAHOI

This is the head of the Lidder valley and the base of a glacier of the same name. The glacier has twin peaks at 17,827 ft. It is a spectacular sight and there are camp sights around 14,000 ft. From Kolahoi, Sonmarg can be reached via Sarbal.

LAND THAT IS STOLEN

These small fields are typical to the Dal and are very well known because of their uniqueness. These small patches of land are used to grow melons and vegetables and it is a beautiful sight to see these floating gardens. Tenants of these lands often steal them by togging them away, using boats in the dead of the night. Shikaras selling vegetables and melons grown on these lands, are a common sight on the Dal and can be termed as the “mobile markets”.

GANDHERBAL

This is a small village on the banks of the Sind river, twelve and a half miles from Srinagar. Gandherbal offers scenic locales with beautiful camping grounds. Gandherbal can be accssed by three routes -

a) Via Shadpur through the river Jhelum which has the Wular Lake in      between.

b) Via Mar canal is the direct water route.

c) By road across Anchar lake.

ANCHAR LAKE

This huge lake, 6 miles from Srinagar, offers beautiful locales with ample flora and fauna. The lake is marshy in parts and has huge clusters of lotus leaves floating on it. Chestnut and Chinar trees line the banks.

MANASBAL LAKE

This small lake is regarded as the gem among all the Kashmir lakes. With abundant vegetation, beautiful lotus plants in bloom and surrounded by majestic hills, it is very difficult to not fall in love with this place. On the neighborhood are fruit gardens are large orchards. There are good campsites in the vicinity and a visit to this lake is a must.

WULAR LAKE

22 miles from Srinagar this is perhaps the largest fresh water lake in Asia. Surrounded by the Harmukh mountains, this lake gets its water from the Jhelum which leaves it at Sopore. The lake is irregularly shaped and presents a spectacular sight that thrills the traveller. The lake has artificial islands, which have remains of temples and palaces scattered around. Wular can be accessed by road and by  river. The river journey is advisable if a memorable adventure is on the mind. This has some good camping grounds along the way and some beautiful spots like Gandherbal, Khirbhawani and the Manasbal Lake enroute.

WOIN

The site is known for its sulphur spring, which has healing powers. It is situated just before Pampur on a side road. Camping grounds are easily available.

KHRU

14 miles from Srinagar Khru is a small village atop a hill. There is a temple of Jwaladevi, where a big fair is held annually some where in July.

NAGMARG

This lush meadow overlooks the Wular Lake and is covered by dense pine forests. A small spring supplies water and the scenic beauty is breathtaking. Nagmarg is about 7 miles from Alsu village, which can be reached from Bandipur situated on the shores of the Wular Lake.

Pahalgam8.jpg (91422 bytes) 1.5 kms. Down the river from the bridge, there is a small ancient stone temple consecrated to Shiva Mamesvara. The temple was built before the 12th century AD, through the name of the builder is unknown. There is a stone-lined tank, about 1.1 sq.mt in dimension.

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