Virtual Homeland of Kashmiri Pandits

Kashmir News Network

Gulmarg has been named the "Switzerland of India", as it is remarkably similar to this European country with heavy snow clad mountains and tall pine trees. Gulmarg is a tourist’s paradise. It literally means the “flower filled meadow”, and it was the favorite haunt of emperor Jehangir. It is a broad bowl shaped meadow which offers a panoramic view across the valley, the Wular lake and the snow capped ridges beyond. For the visitors, Gulmarg offers a range of facilities like golf courses, race courses, ski lifts, cable cars etc. During winters, Gulmarg is India's premier skiing resort. Pony rides along the forested slopes with snow all around, are memorable experiences. One can walk across to the numerous meadows in and around Gulmarg, which contain small lakes and tiny hamlets scattered all over. Besides, there are ample camping grounds right in the lap of nature.

A huge cup-shaped meadow, lush and green, with slopes where the silence is broken only by the tinkle of cow-bells, Gulmarg looks like a fantasy set in a film, and not surprisingly, has been the venue of several films. All around are snow capped mountains, and on a clear day you can see all the way to Nanga Parbat in one direction and Srinagar in another.

From Gulmarg, a pony track leads upwards to Khilanmarg, Kongdori and Seven Springs, a couple of hours by pony, longer on foot. From here, across the Apharwat - the peak which looms up from this point - is Alpather Lake, a picturesque alpine lake, frozen till late June. For horse riding afficionadoes, Alpather lake makes an exciting day's excursion, starting early morning and returning late evening.

Slightly lower than Gulmarg is the shrine of Baba Reshi, a Muslim mystic saint, whose shrine is visited by people of all faiths.

Gulmarg also has one of the world's highest green golf courses, as well as a club house which is a historical building in its own right. For the would-be golfer, there are golf sets on hire, pros to instruct one in the game, and temporary memberships, including one-day memberships. Naturally, these facilities are available to players as Well, except that serious golfers usually carry their sets along. For a fun-filled ride of a most unusual kind, Gulmarg's newly constructed gondola lift from high above Gulmarg, through pine-clad slopes, is exhilarating.

In winter, Gulmarg acquires a new persona - that of the country's premier skiing resort. Skiing, to many who watch it on TV, seems like a very elitist sport, requiring a high level of training and expensive equipment. They are surprised, when they visit Gulmarg for a day's expedition to "see the snow", that others with the same level of physical fitness and training are skiing down slopes.

Gulmarg is the ultimate beginner's skiing resort. You don't need the kind of wardrobe you see on TV-slacks or a salwar kameez will do fine. You don't even need heavy woolens, as in Gulmarg you'll be able to hire snowboots, mufflers, woollen socks, windproof jackets and caps. You'll also be able to drift to one of the many ski shops and hire skis, sticks and goggles, find yourself a ski instructor and set off down a slope, cheered lustily by your family while the ski instructor takes a picture of you with your camera!

Neither do you need to exert your- self climbing up slopes: the most gentle slope of 200 metres is linked with a ski lift which helps you to go up. When you graduate to intermediate level - which will happen after the first few days of practice, there are other slopes, longer and steeper, which are connected by chair lift. The longest ski run in Gulmarg is provided by the Gondola Cable Car which allows a ski run of 2,213 metres.

Excursions From Gulmarg
 
KHILAN MARG
6 kms from Gulmarg, this vast plain studded with flower-covered meadows, is the site for Gulmarg’s winter ski runs. Old snow beds provide good facilities for tobogganing and sledging. It offers a fine view of the peaks surrounding the Kashmir valley.
 
ALPATHER
This is a small meadow 13 kms from Gulmarg at the base of the Apharwat peak. A beautiful blue lake on its summit is frozen till late in the year and offers excellent skating ground.
 
NINGLE NALLAH
This beautiful mountain stream flows from the melting snow and on Apharwat peak to Alpather Lake. It is about 10 kms from Gulmarg. The route along the stream has good camping ground. The stream continues to meet the Jhelum River near Sopore.
 
FEROZPORE NALLAH
This mountain stream meets the Bahan River. It is a popular picnic spot called "Waters Heat". Trout fishing is one of the attractions. It’s a 5 km trek from Gulmarg and one can reach TOSHAMAIDAN, one of Kashmir’s most beautiful meadows, from here after a three-day trek (50 km). Numerous small springs and streams dot the landscape. Best season to visit is around June.
 
ZIARAT OF BABA RESHI
It is situated at 7000 ft. This Muslim shrine on the slopes below Gulmarg is a beautiful campsite. The tomb (Ziarat) is that of an ascetic Baba Pam Din who was well known during the Mughal period. He is said to have died around 1480.
 
GAGRI MARG
Two-house trek from Alpathar is this beautiful grassy valley. The attraction here is a small lake called Gagrimarg.
 
BANIBALI NAG
This is a beautiful, small lake situated at 9600 ft higher up the Ferozpur valley. It takes around 5 hours to get here from Gulmarg.
 
KOUTAR NAG
It is situated at 13,250 ft. This beautiful lakelet is atop a picturesque mountain and offers a panoramic view of Poonch. The trek can be done in two days.
 
JOSHMAIDAN
This meadow is said to be the most beautiful in the Kashmir valley. The route is tough and it takes 5 days for a return trek.
 
SONMARG [Meadow of Gold]
50 miles from Srinagar, situated at 2740 mts is the lovely meadow called Sonmarg. This is the last major town before Ladakh. It can be reached via Ganderbal after a tiring trek or by ponies. Sonmarg offers some of the best camping sites in the valley. Some of the best sites are near the mouth of the Glacier valley. Snow front fishing can be enjoyed in the river at Sonmarg. Sonmarg is the access point for the Zojila Pass, which is about two and a half miles from Baltal, the last village in Kashmir. The Amarnath cave and Kolahoi glacier are also within reach. The best time to visit Sonmarg is during spring, when the meadows are in full bloom and the weather is mild.
 
ANANTNAG
Anantnag is the home of the God Indra. Anantnag is the 2nd biggest town in Kashmir. The town is built around a hill, which has a well-known sulphur spring at its base. A huge spring called Malakhnag has a temple built over it. During the Amarnath Yatra, this temple is crowded with pilgrims who come here to seek blessings. Anantnag is an important trade centre with lot of local handicrafts like woodcarvings, embroidered clothing etc. being sold in the market. Anantnag is about 34 miles from Srinagar and is connected by road. From here it is possible to visit Achhabal, Varinag, Kookernag, Martand temple, Mattan, Kulgam etc.
 
ACCHABAL
Shah Jahan built this beautiful Mughal garden in 1620 for his daughter Jahanara. This beautiful pleasure garden with spectacular springs gushing out from the base of a hill was once the favorite retreat of Nur Jahan. High Chinar trees with lush green lawns and the bubbling springs, fruit trees and flowers in bloom are truly a spectacular sight. Trout fishing facilities are available and it is possible to camp in the vicinity of the gardens, though not within 400 yards. One can visit the ruins of Martand from Acchabal situated about 4 miles from Ranbir Singhpura village.
 
KOOKER NAG
Some of the most beautiful rose gardens are found at Kookernag. Numerous springs are located in and around Kookernag. Trout fishing can be enjoyed.
 
VERINAG
This spring is situated at the foot of the Banibal pass in the Pir Panjal range in Kashmir, and is said to be the source of the Jhelum River. Emperor Jehangir built an octagonal stone basin at the spring in 1612. In 1620 Shah Jahan laid a garden around it. Fruits are available in abundance and the water of the spring is known for its medicinal value.
 
MATTAN
On the route to Pahalgam, Mattan is an important pilgrimage, place of the Hindus. A huge spring gushes out from the base of a hill and a temple dedicated to Martand or the Sun God is found here. Enroute to the Amarnath Cave, Mattan offers good camping sites right in the midst of nature. It is about 5 miles from Anantnag.
 
MARTAND TEMPLE
Just above Mattan is a huge ruined temple of Martand or “The Sun God”. The dimensions of the temple are imposing with length being 63 ft and height being 60 ft. There are intricate carvings on huge stone columns and the walls are richly panelled and decorated. The temple was built by Ramditya around the 5th century and modified by king Lalitaditya in the 8th century. From Mattan, it is one and a half miles up a hill.

AMARNATH CAVE
One of the most revered holy places in India is the cave shrine of Amarnath. About 28 miles from Pahalgam, Amarnath cave is situated amongst snow-clad peaks with barren landscape and is quite different from the rest of Kashmir.

During the month of August starting from the Amavasiya day of the month of Shravan of the Hindu calendar, devotees from all corners of the country and from abroad begin this holy pilgrimage from the Dashnami Akhara in Srinagar. The pilgrims trek through Anantnag to Mattan and arrive at Pahalgam. It takes 4 days to reach the cave. The 1st day trek is up to Chandanwari, 13 kms from Pahalgam. The road is scenic but steep. Springs and some grassy meadow along the way offer a good campsite. It is about 9500 ft above sea level and the pilgrims spend the night here.

The 2nd day trek stretches from Chandanwari to Sheshnag, which is about 12 kms away. The path is slippery and ascends into a narrow valley. At an altitude of 11,730 ft is situated the Sheshnag lake with hills surrounding it on all sides. The water is emerald blue in color and a bath in the lake is considered holy. On the 3rd day, the trek continues from Sheshnag to Panchtarni about 11 km away. The route passes Wayujan, a very wind place with barren landscape, which includesa a steep ascent up to 14000 ft and then a gradual descent. The scenery is beautiful with meadows and variety of flowers. Panchtarni means 5 streams and here 5 small streams meet and flow on as Ramganga, to join the Sind river. Further up, camp sites are available and pilgrims take a well deserved rest before the final trek to Amarnath the next day.

Amarnath is 4 miles from Panchtarni and the pilgrims start early so as to reach the cave shrine in time. The Shrine is within a massive cave, the mouth of which is about 150 ft wide. Within the cave is an icicle of natural ice formed in the shape of the “Lingam”. This lingam diminishes gradually as the moon wanes and increases as the moon grows. This phenomenon is repeated every month but on the Full Moon day (PURNIMA) in August, the Lingam is largest and most clearly visible.

There are no trees or meadows and the landscape is all covered with snow. Pilgrims bathe in the sacred Amarganga before entering the cave. Pilgrims return back to Panchtarni the same day.